Method 1:

1. Cut the copper-clad laminate to size according to the circuit diagram requirements.

2. Place wax paper on a steel plate and use a pen to engrave the circuit diagram onto the wax paper at a 1:1 scale. Then, cut the wax paper to the size of the circuit board. Mix a small amount of paint and talcum powder into a suitable consistency for printing ink, dip a brush into the ink, and evenly apply it to the wax paper. Repeat this process several times to transfer the circuit onto the board. This stencil can be reused and is suitable for small-batch production.

3. Prepare an etching solution by mixing 1 gram of potassium chlorate with 40 milliliters of 15% hydrochloric acid, and apply it to the areas of the circuit board that need to be etched.

4. Rinse the etched board thoroughly with water. To ensure the board is clean, wipe off the paint with banana oil and rinse again. Apply a layer of rosin essence and drill holes after it dries.

Method 2:

There are many methods for making printed circuit boards (PCBs) under amateur conditions, but they are either time-consuming, complex, or the quality is not satisfactory. The following is a method with relatively good overall results:

1. Draw the board layout. Use single lines for connections and pads, but ensure accurate positioning and dimensions.

2. Cut the copper-clad board to size and clean the copper surface according to the board layout dimensions.

3. This step can be skipped by using carbon paper to transfer the diagram onto the board if it's simple enough.

4. Attach standard pre-cut symbols (pads) of different outer diameters according to the actual situation, and different widths of tape according to the current. Standard pre-cut symbols and tape are available at electronic stores. Common pad standards include D373 (OD-2.79, ID-0.79), D266 (OD-2.00, ID-0.80), D237 (OD-3.50, ID-1.50), among others. It's best to buy those made of paper-based material (black), and avoid plastic (red) based materials if possible. Common tape widths are 0.3, 0.9, 1.8, 2.3, 3.7, etc., all in millimeters.

5. Use a soft hammer, such as a rubber or plastic one, to gently tap the stickers to ensure they fully adhere to the copper foil. Pay attention to the corners and bends. In cold weather, use a heater to warm the surface to enhance adhesion.

6. Immerse the board in ferric chloride solution for etching, but keep the temperature below 40°C. Rinse the board promptly after etching, especially in areas with fine wires.

7. Polish the copper foil with fine sandpaper, then apply ethanol solution, let it dry, and the board is ready. The quality of this type of PCB is similar to that of professionally made ones. Using 0.3mm tape between IC pins can greatly reduce short circuits and save time.

Method 3:

1. Dissolve one part of shellac (available at chemical supply stores) in three parts of anhydrous alcohol, stir well, and add a few drops of medical gentian violet solution to give it some color. Mix evenly and use it to describe the circuit board.

2. First, polish the copper-clad board with fine sandpaper, then use a duckbill pen from a drawing instrument (or an ink duckbill pen used for drawing shapes on a compass) to draw. The duckbill has a nut for adjusting the line thickness, allowing for precise and smooth lines with no serrated edges, using a ruler or set square. At the same time, write Chinese characters, English words, and symbols.

3. If the lines are too thick, add more shellac; if they are too thin, add a few drops of anhydrous alcohol. If you make a mistake, use a small stick (like a matchstick) as a cotton swab dipped in anhydrous alcohol to easily erase it and redraw. After drawing the circuit board, etch it with ferric chloride solution. Once the board is etched, use a cotton ball dipped in anhydrous alcohol to remove the protective coating, and apply rosin after it dries slightly.

4. Since alcohol evaporates quickly, store the prepared protective coating in a small bottle (like an ink bottle) with a tight lid. If the concentration becomes too thick the next time you use it, just add some anhydrous alcohol.

Method 4:

Apply adhesive stickers directly onto the copper foil of the copper-clad laminate, draw the circuit on the sticker, cut the circuit into the sticker with a knife, remove the non-circuit parts, and finally use ferric chloride etching or electrolytic method to produce an ideal circuit board.

1. The etching temperature is about 55°C, which speeds up the etching process. Rinse the etched board with water, remove the stickers, drill holes, clean it, and apply a rosin-alcohol solution.

Method 5:

1. Arrange the component density and position of each component reasonably based on the shape of the components used in the circuit schematic and the size of the PCB area. When determining component positions, follow the principles of placing larger components first, then smaller ones, and considering the overall layout before local details, to keep adjacent components in the circuit close together, neatly and evenly arranged.

2. Avoid bending components at right angles at turns and intersections, and use curved transitions instead. Components should not cross or bypass each other unnecessarily. When some conductors cannot avoid this, consider printing the wires on the back of the PCB and connecting them to the front circuit with vias or using separate insulated wires during soldering.

3. It is better to keep the input and output sections far apart to avoid mutual interference.

Method 6:

Radio enthusiasts often struggle with making circuit boards. Here is an "Aya Printing" method for printing circuit boards:

1. Print the circuit board diagram on 80g paper at a 1:1 scale using a photocopier. You can also draw it by hand, but the base paper must be flat.

2. Take a fax machine, remove the fax paper, and replace it with thermal plastic film. Place the circuit diagram at the fax machine's entrance and use the fax machine's copy function to transfer the diagram onto the thermal plastic film. At this point, the "master copy" for printing the circuit board is ready.

3. Attach the plastic film with the diagram to the copper-clad board using double-sided tape. It should be flat without wrinkles or creases, as these can affect the quality of the circuit board.

4. Use a brush to evenly apply paint onto the plastic film. Note: Do not brush downwards; only brush in one direction to prevent wrinkles in the film, which can cause overlapping lines on the copper board. Once all the circuits are painted, carefully remove the plastic film. At this point, a printed circuit board is ready. Let it dry before etching.

If you need to print multiple parts, make a wooden frame slightly larger than the circuit board, lay the screen (available from our company) flat on the frame, and secure it. Attach the fixed plastic film with double-sided tape underneath the screen. Place the copper-clad board on the table, align the screen (make sure the print and the copper-clad board are aligned left and right), and use a paintbrush to apply the paint in one direction. Then, remove the screen frame. The printed circuit board is ready. If there are any imperfections, you can touch them up or make corrections.

For the above steps, please note that when brushing the paint, apply light and even pressure. Too much pressure can result in a thick paint film, causing the lines to blur, while too little pressure can cause the lines to break. The plastic film must be face up.